"Here Comes Sinterklaas, Here Comes Sinterklaas" (...On a Horse, By Boat, From Spain)

Forget Santa Claus, the holidays have come and gone.
Oh haven't you heard?
Round these parts (Netherlands and parts of Belgium/France), early December is reserved for the celebration of the beloved Sinterklaas.
That's right friends, jolly old Saint Nick indeed has an origin story, and his name is Sinterklaas.

He rocks the signature beard but a more "Saintly" (i.e. pope-ish) looking red hat compared to Santa's simple night cap. Oh, and naturally Sinterklaas comes from Spain, rides a steamboat to the Netherlands and rides a white horse to travel around. That's nothing compared to Santa living in the  ice desert of the North Pole, flying through the air in a sleigh with reindeer hauling his load.

That beard though

He's Santa's original, more serious counter part who visits children to leave them gifts - but only if they're good. North America has prettied up the narrative where Santa basically writes your name down if you're bad and maybe gives you coal. Whereas Sinterklaas has no issue calling out children with a good spanking to keep them in line, or he might even take you back to Spain as punishment (which, based on weather considerations might not be such a bad thing #vaycay).

Holiday traditions are interesting that way - not really making complete sense yet we have an affinity for whichever version we grow up (and perhaps continue) to believe.

Where Sinterklaas takes a "dark" interesting turn, is the manifestation of his helpers or elf-counter parts. Labelled "Zwarte Piet" (Black Pete), the helpers have "dark complexions" ... okay so they look like black people. Now whether this is because it's a call out to colonial slavery, African/Muslim cultures living in Spain at the time, or innocent "chimney dust" from delivering presents - it's an interesting aspect of the tradition and one which remains even in these #moderntimes.

Zwarte Piet caricatures vs. Mary Poppins chimney sweeps.
Let's be real, that's more than a little chimney dust and some of those fros are bigger than mine!

I was on visiting the Hague, when little did I know, it was Sinterklaas parade day.
Hmmm, pleasant pageantry right? Not quite.

Sinterklaas & Zwarte Piets at the Hague

Dutch tradition includes dressing up in "black face" in tribute to "Zwarte Piet". I was surrounded by adults AND children dressed up in full flair and celebration. It was such a trip to be thinking "if I were somewhere else this would NOT be okay" yet everyone else was so cool, calm, collect about it. Even if we're talking chimney soot on your face, that's a bit different from a face evenly toned to a darker colour and a wig to clearly highlight a contrasting ethnicity/race. #justsaying


Here's an interesting CNN digital short (15 mins) exploring why the Netherlands continues the use of the Black Pete caricature or catch Al Jazeera "The Stream" (social media panel, 30 mins), another program on the topic. (Take them for what they are based on various perspectives)


Whether you're up in arms over perceived racism or see it as harmless children's story - it's a manifestation of culture, none the less. I've talked to Dutch friends who are on both sides of the fence. and regardless of where you're from or your traditions, the holidays are indeed a time for celebration, thankfulness and togetherness.














Togetherness in the form of a class gift exchange - for 3 hours. In true Dutch form we sat in a circle the whole night while we opened, treasured and stole small gifts! (Thank you Miriam and Krista) It was a great and memorable moment with the Groningen NOHA crew in addition to 3-course dinners, courtesy of our Dutch classmates (Thanks Matthijs). Happy holidays and safe travels to everyone!